Diamonds and the 4Cs
As we approach Valentine’s Day, I am sure some of you are in the market to buy a diamond. Congratulations to both of you. I wish you luck as you work through the process of buying a diamond engagement ring. The diamond chart at the end of this post gives you a quick visual reference.
DW Gems is here to guide you and teach you how to buy the best diamond for your money. In this blog, I will go through the 4Cs and what they all mean. As always, if you have more questions, please feel free to contact me. I have access to thousands of diamonds, and I would be happy to assist you.
Until the middle of the twentieth century, there was no agreed standard for judging diamonds. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) created the first standard, which is now accepted worldwide. It describes diamonds by Color, Clarity, Cut and Carat Weight. Today, the 4Cs are the universal method for assessing any diamond, anywhere in the world. The 4Cs meant two important things. First, jewelers could describe diamond quality in a universal language. Second, customers could know exactly what they were about to buy.
Color
Color grading for a gem-quality diamond is based on the lack of hue, like a drop of pure water. The less color in a diamond, the higher its value.
The GIA created a scale from D to Z, which is the most widely used in the jewelry industry. D is colorless, and color increases through the scale to Z. Many of these distinctions are so subtle that it takes an experienced gemologist with a set of master stones to determine the color.
Diamond fluorescence, in its simplest form, is the effect that ultraviolet (UV) light has on a diamond. Under a blue light or UV light, you may notice your white clothes get brighter or your teeth seem to glow. The trade often considers diamonds in the D to H color range with bluish fluorescence less desirable. Some believe strong bluish fluorescence can cause a hazy or oily look. However, not all diamonds with very strong fluorescence look oily, and they may still sell for less than diamonds without it. All else being equal, a diamond with fluorescence typically sells 5% to 10% lower.
The difference in value from one color to another can be huge. So it is important to know the color grade is accurate.
Clarity
Natural diamonds form when carbon meets tremendous heat and pressure deep in the earth. This process can leave internal characteristics called inclusions and external characteristics called blemishes.
The GIA created a scale with 6 categories. Some are split further, for a total of 11 clarity grades.
Again, you need an experienced gemologist to determine this grade. Most people cannot see the inclusions or blemishes without magnification. A gemologist considers the size of the diamond, along with the number, size, relief, nature and position of these characteristics. They also judge how these affect the overall look of the stone. No diamond is perfectly pure, but the closer it comes, the higher its value.
There can be a substantial difference in value between a VS2 and an SI1. So make sure you have the correct clarity grade.
Cut
In my opinion, this is the most important factor when buying a diamond.
Cut does not refer to the shape of the diamond. Instead, it describes how well a diamond’s facets interact with light. Granted, all diamonds are faceted, so they all have some sparkle. But the better the cut, the more sparkle a diamond has. It takes precise artistry and workmanship to fashion a stone so that its proportions, symmetry and polish deliver that return of light. Of all the 4Cs, cut is the most complex and technically difficult to analyze.
The GIA Cut Grading System evaluates 7 categories. The first three, brightness, fire and scintillation, consider the diamond’s overall face-up appearance. The remaining four, weight ratio, durability, polish and symmetry, assess the design and craftsmanship.
Brightness
Internal and external white light reflected from a diamond.
Fire
The scattering of white light into all the colors of the rainbow.
Scintillation
The sparkle a diamond produces, and the pattern of light and dark areas caused by reflections within the diamond.
Carat Weight
Diamond carat weight is simply how much a diamond weighs. A metric carat equals 200 milligrams.
Each carat divides into 100 points, which allows very precise measurements. A jeweler may describe a diamond below one carat by its points alone. For instance, a 0.25 carat diamond is a twenty-five pointer. Above one carat, jewelers use carats and decimals, so a 1.08 carat stone is one point oh eight carats.
Jewelers weigh loose diamonds on electronic carat scales to get exact weights. For set diamonds, an experienced gemologist measures the diameter and depth, then uses a formula to estimate the weight.
All else being equal, price increases with carat weight, because larger diamonds are rarer. But two diamonds of equal weight can have very different values depending on the other three Cs: Clarity, Color and Cut. In other words, all four Cs determine a diamond’s value, not just carat weight.
Synopsis
Diamond grading is subjective, so graders may differ on a stone, especially when it is set. Very subtle differences can cause this. For diamonds over 1.00 ct with differing grades, it may be worth getting a GIA Report so you have the most accurate grade available. GIA only grades loose stones, so you may pay unsetting and resetting charges.
I will be happy to help with all your diamond needs, so contact me for an appointment. In the meantime, use the diamond chart below as a starting point.
Diamond Chart: How Color, Clarity and Carat Change the Look
